Today’s Zip Corvette technical question comes from a 1967 Corvette owner:
I own a 1967 Corvette convertible. When I turn on the radio, my dash lights go out immediately. FUSE BLOWN! I have checked most of the wiring for bare wires, but no luck to date. Would it be something in the radio itself? It is an original radio and it has never been touched. Thanks, I really miss those dash lights.
Answer: With electrical issues, it can be very difficult to find the culprit. However, with the symptoms you described, I would lean towards a short in your Corvette’s radio. You have an interior light that is inside the radio on a midyear Corvette and I feel confident that you have a short in that circuit. The fact that the radio has not been rebuilt also makes me think the radio is the problem because it is 41 years old. The life span that GM put on the wiring in the car was originally 10 years, so I can’t imagine that it was much more or even less from the other components in the car. I think it would be best to have the radio restored. Then, you may want to consider replacing your Corvette’s wiring harness if that has not already been done.
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I have a 1966 Corvette Convertible 427/425 with TI ignition. I have had two original radios (both restored) in the car and it plays perfectly sitting still. I have also purchased a restored antenna and replaced the cable. Once the car starts moving the signal drifts in and out and frequently goes away. The antenna bracket is grounded to the frame and there is no motor noise. This has been a costly and frustrating experience and I am looking for suggestions.
Rick,
I am sorry to say that is how the Midyear Corvette Radios were. GM tried to improve this problem by adding the braided wires but this has been a problem since day one. There are some aftermarket capacitors which could help fix this problem.
I have the braided wires and they are grounded as well. Can you suggest part numbers of these capacitors and where I might install them? I also would like to know where I might get a schematic drawing of the AM/FM powered antenna U69? I have used ZIP for years in several different restorations, keep up the good work.
Rick,
The best schematic I know of is from the Midyear Corvette Assembly Manual. I have only seen a few schematics available and that one is the best. My part number for the 1963-1982 Corvette Noise Suppressor is XR-123. Thank you for the compliment we will keep up the good work, thank you for using Zip.
I have a 1968 Stingray. The original radio is dead. I bought a RetroSounds replacement radio. There is a harness that went into the original radio with yellow, black and grey wires. I would guess the black is the ground the yellow is the constant power; is the grey the ignition?
Bart,
The grey wire would be connected to the interior lights. Originally the Corvette radio would light up when the Corvette’s lights were switched on. The grey wire is what controlled that option. The retrosounds radio you purchased may not have that option.
Greetings… I have a 1967 corvette 327 automatic car. The car has been driving great over the last year. I have not changed anything related to anything electrical. All of a sudden, when I drive the car it stauls on me while I am driving. I sanded all the starter connections after changing the oil pan gasket as oil was saturating the wires and connections. Everything is clean and put back together. It is scary always being stranded and having your car cut out of no where. After putting the starter back in place (I took pictures to make sure it was connected correctly) I went to turn the key and it’s dead. Have you or anyone every had this problem. My wife wants to drive the car but has now lost all confidence in the car and me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Ed:
If you don’t have a volt meter, this is a good time to pick one up.
You need to check for power at the major (large battery cable) starter terminal on the solenoid.
If you have power there, you need to check for power at the trigger terminal when the key is in the start position.
If you have power at both of these wire terminals, at the appropriate time, and everything is hooked up properly, you may have a bad starter.
If you are not getting power at the trigger wire, you need to inspect the wiring, and the ignition switch.
From the sound of it, the ignition switch is more than likely the culprit. However, I would still check for power at the starter before I replaced the switch.